Publisher: Amy Marson

Creative Director: Gailen Runge

Editor: Karla Menaugh

Technical Editors: Priscilla Read and Carolyn Aune

Cover/Book Designer: Page + Pixel

Production Coordinator: Freesia Pearson Blizard

Production Editor: Katie Van Amburg, Alice Mace Nakanishi, and Jennifer Warren

Illustrator: Kirstie Pettersen

Photo Assistant: Sarah Frost

Style photography by Page + Pixel and instructional photography by Diane Pedersen, unless otherwise noted

DEDICATION

For Tess and Eli, my favorite people to make quilts for

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to my agent, Hilary McMahon, for her enthusiasm and hard work. Thanks to Roxane Cerda, who thought this book was a good idea in the first place and helped get it started in the right direction. Thank you to Liz Aneloski and Karla Menaugh for answering many questions and applying their keen editing skills to these pages. To everyone on the C&T team, who all did what they do best, my sincerest thanks.

To my quilting friends near and far, huge thanks for saving and sending selvages to me. This book would have been impossible without the help of many generous quilters.

To Timeless Treasures, Dear Stella, and Riley Blake Designs, thanks for making fabulous fabrics in general, but more specifically thanks for sending me fabrics and selvages to use for the projects in this book.

Thanks to Tina Hanson for her perfect stipple and all-around quilting skills. She’s the only person besides me to ever quilt my selvage quilts, so when it came time for the ones in this book, she was of course the only choice.

Thanks to the many people in the quilting and arts communities who’ve been encouraging and supportive of what I do.

Finally, and most of all, thanks and love to my husband, Shane, and my children, Tess and Eli, for tolerating the sound of my sewing machine running in the background of their lives.

THE BEGINNING

I have no idea who started all this.

I never met—in fact I don’t even know the name of—the woman who first made me think I could be a quilter. And there was another woman who helped too, but alas, I don’t know anything about her either. I only remember what she once told me.

“Well, if you want,” she said, “you can fill a whole bag for $5.” That is what’s most important to this story. Let me set the scene.

It’s a sunny, clear morning in a small town in New Brunswick, Canada. A Saturday in early May. I’m standing on the dewy lawn of a stranger’s house. Other people are here too. They’re circling the many tables, rows of cardboard boxes lining the driveway, and blankets spread on the grass like giant place mats.

It’s a yard sale. But more than that, it’s the estate sale of a quilter. So now reimagine those tables. They’re piled with fabric. In the boxes? More fabric. Those boxes over there too? Yes indeed: fabric. On the blankets? Well, pots and pans and kitchenware actually, but at the edges are bags of scraps, batting bits, and cotton strips.

I’m drawn to it all because it’s colorful. Reds and pinks. Rich turquoise. A large orange rectangle with yellow dots. She liked brights, this unknown quilter. This is good. I do too.

I browse. I unfold pieces and try to refold them somewhat neatly. I wander around, enjoying myself, but I also wonder why anyone would ever need so much fabric. This hoard seems record setting. Really, how many quilts can a person make? (Of course, unbeknownst to me was the fact that what I was seeing was a pretty tame stash, and within two years I would accumulate almost as much.)

I stir through boxes. A woman approaches.

“Are you a quilter?” she asks.

“Oh, no,” I say. “I just like looking at the fabric.”

Then the fateful line.

“Well if you want,” she says, “you can fill a whole bag for $5.” She gestures widely with her arm. “There’s lots to choose from.”

Something clicks. It’s like an imaginary presser foot snaps down on part of my brain. I interpret it as: I need some of this. Really, how can I resist?

I walk back to the car, where my husband is waiting, and tell him I might be a while.

Now, the idea of making a quilt—one quilt, one time only, just to try—for my daughter’s upcoming second birthday has been floating around in my head. I’m a creative, crafty sort who has always enjoyed making things, so a quilt as a personal touch for her recently redecorated bedroom seems a possibility. But I haven’t done anything about it. Yet.

I sort and stack fabric, mix and match pieces large and small, choose scraps and yardage, pick out fat quarters, and make a pile. I fill not just a bag, but a big box—for the bargain price of $6. I thank the woman and she wishes me luck with my sewing. I don’t think I ever saw her again.

That morning is one of those tiny twists in my life. We all have them. A point in time when something happens to angle the path you’re on. Like the line you’re sewing goes from a running stitch to a zigzag. Something that doesn’t seem terribly significant at the time ends up meaning so much.

Unsuspecting, a creatively inclined woman walks into a yard sale; a quilter walks out.

But that’s not to say it was an instant transformation without its missteps. Or that my vague recollection of making an apron in a junior high school home economics class gave me a solid sewing skill set.

My daughter’s birthday quilt was made with blocks that were cut using fingernail scissors—the sharpest scissors I had in the house. Each square had been outlined in pen on the fabric by using a cardboard template made from a cereal box. The quilt was a Nine Patch. The colors matched; the seams didn’t. It took a really long time to make. I frequently, shall we say, verbally vented my frustrations. There were days that I probably should’ve warned my neighbors who were out walking their dogs that a sewing machine could come flying through the window of my house at any second.

The birthday quilt was completed. I honestly felt more relieved than satisfied. I almost could’ve stopped this whole thing right then. But after seeing my daughter’s quilt, my four-year-old son wanted one too. Now imagine big blue eyes with long dark lashes looking up at me: “Where’s my quilt, Mommy?” Sewing that one went a little better. Even though the fingernail scissors and cereal-box template were still involved, it was a slightly less infuriating experience. There were just enough positive points in the process to encourage me to keep trying. I gradually taught myself to quilt using trial and error and by reading everything I could online. I bought a rotary cutter and mat, a couple of rulers, good scissors, a better (but modest) sewing machine, an all-important seam ripper, and more fabric.

I didn’t use patterns. I made up my own designs. My style began to develop. I like bright colors and quilts with lots of different fabrics in them. I like small pieces put together in a clever way that combine into a magnificent whole. Busy quilts with lots to see a bit at a time. Freestyle scrap quilts. And believe me, the knowledge that I started with someone else’s scraps—from that quilter who left her fabric behind for me to find—most certainly seems serendipitous.

NEXT CAME THE SELVAGES

Then one day during my ongoing online research to improve my sewing skills, I saw a selvage quilt. My first thought was, That looks like something I would do. All my favorite quilt elements were there. Scraps—unusual scraps, even. Lots of different fabrics. Small pieces. Best of all, you couldn’t properly take in the selvage quilt with a glance. It had to be browsed, read, searched, I-spied, and lingered over. It was my style of quilt.

As I researched longer, I realized that most selvage quilts were done in traditional patterns. Most used a single construction method. String blocks seemed to be the go-to design. They were beautiful and I was excited by what I saw, but also by what I didn’t see: many more modern possibilities. Selvage quilting seemed to be a perfect match for me and an excellent chance to innovate. Here was a wonderful challenge.

ABOUT THIS BOOK

Now, after sewing thousands of selvage pieces and making dozens of selvage projects, I’m thrilled to share what I’ve come up with.

It’s highly unlikely that any two selvage quilts will be exactly the same. Your selvage collection is an expression of your cumulative design choices. Selvages are souvenir snippets of every fabric you’ve selected and used. A completed selvage quilt is like a catalog of your personal style.

In writing this book and creating these projects, my goal was to come up with patterns that could showcase your unique selvage collection in a modern way. The quilts are busy in sections, but clean overall. Other types of projects show the versatility and many ways these fabulous fabric strips can be used.

I hope you enjoy making these projects as much as I did.

Let’s get started.

INTRODUCTION

No fabric was harmed in the making of this book.

No fabric was stripped of its selvage and left to languish without creative fulfillment in a drawer or (gasp) garbage can. Selvages in these projects were cut and saved from material that already had a starring role elsewhere. Selvages are scraps, after all.

But they are special scraps. They are removed at the beginning of your project rather than being left over at the end. They are one little strip per length of fabric—printed with information that was important earlier in the fabric’s journey from manufacturer to quilt shop to you. Selvages are like ticket stubs you keep from a fabulous show. Selvage quilts are scrapbooks where you display them.

So selvage quilts are scrap quilts, and the idea of making scrap quilts has never been forgotten by quilters. Now that there is an ever-increasing awareness of selvages as usable scraps, there is no reason to think that selvage quilts will fade away either. I think it’s too late to suggest that it’s a passing fad. It isn’t something new, weird, or temporary, but rather a creative and useful solution. This isn’t a rock becoming a pet rock. Selvages aren’t being cut off just to make an interesting piece of textile art; they are being cut off anyway (and always have been).

Nothing is being overthought. This is still a scrap joining together with other scraps to make a beautiful sewn result—just with a modern update.

The form and basic look of selvages work perfectly with modern designs. If you think about it element by element, it’s almost like selvages were destined all along to be a part of modern quilts. Individual selvages are essentially long, thin lines that can be sewn at any angle. Straight lines lend themselves to both simple geometric shapes and abstract patterns. Selvages sewn in groups can easily be made into squares, rectangles, and triangles. Selvages are a scarce commodity (in that they must be gradually saved rather than bought in quantity), so quilters can stretch their collection by using them in quilts complemented by solid fabric sections. The larger the solid sections, the fewer selvages needed. Areas of intense linear detail are balanced with negative space. Selvages are printed with text, numbers, and dots. Think about how often these elements show up as details in modern fabric.

It all fits. These factors, combined with a good design, mean that selvages made into quilts can easily be categorized as modern.

There are so many pretty fabrics out there—why get excited about just the edge?

But I know that some people don’t get selvage quilts. I’ve heard the argument, There are so many pretty fabrics out there—why get excited about just the edge? Fair enough. I think it’s important not to see selvage quilts as being made instead of other quilts, but as well as other quilts. You still get to use all the pretty fabrics—actually, almost twice. Once for the yardage and once for the selvage. Simply due to how long it takes to accumulate selvages, there will always be some ratio involved. Make five or ten regular quilts and then make one selvage quilt? Selvage quilts are bonus quilts. Or who says it has to be a whole quilt you make with your selvages? Small pieces are nice to sew too.

Regardless of who received the original quilts you made with the fabrics the selvages came from, your selvage quilt can be for you. Its construction is a look back at all the projects that came before. Once your selvages are sewn together, they are recorded as a history of those previous quilts, those previous fabrics, your quilting journey. It is a type of preservation. Who knows how selvage quilts will eventually be looked at as a part of textile history, but at least they will have a lot of information to give. Names and dates—it’s like they’re documents waiting to be read.

Since I’m inching ever-closer to sentimentality here, one more nostalgic thought. Quilters have long been clever recyclers. Many antique quilts are made with reused items like feed sacks and old clothing. Sewing selvages is a modern way to keep the quilting tradition of innovative repurposing alive.

Plus they’re fun to make! You can relax as you put a selvage quilt together. It doesn’t matter if you make a mistake or wreck something. You’re using free supplies, after all.

Selvage sewing is not about instant gratification. As exciting as it sometimes is to buy new fabric and rush home immediately to start a project, that won’t be happening here. Selvage sewing is about long-term satisfaction. Making a selvage project involves many enjoyable steps along the way. Before you can start, you’ll have to save selvages and learn the selvage sewing methods. You’ll have to sort your selvages and think about what fabric to combine with these unique scraps to make everything look its best. The following basics and tips are your warm-up exercises before you begin your selvage-sewing marathon.

WHAT SELVAGES LOOK LIKE

All selvages have two things in common: they’re located on the edge of a piece of fabric and they’re finished so they won’t fray.

Beyond that are variations. Some selvages have a straight edge; some have a shaggy edge. Some are quite wide; some are narrow. Most are white or beige, but some are the same color as the base fabric. Many, but not all, are printed with designer and manufacturer information, which may include fabric pattern name, company name, fiber content (100% cotton), year made, country of manufacture, and more. Also included is a row of colored dots, often numbered, showing each color that appears in the fabric design. All selvages are meant to be removed from the fabric before sewing. All are meant to be saved and sewn into selvage projects of their own. (I threw this last one in because, hey, it should be so!)

A variety of selvages

STYLISH SELVAGES

In recent years, many selvages have become prettier, much to the delight of selvage quilters. In particular, the numbered colored windows aren’t always dots anymore. Novelty shapes, sometimes representing an item in the fabric design, are used. Tiny birds, flowers, or stars are examples. Another way selvages are stylish is the increased use of designer logos and small images or symbols representing a fabric line. Many selvages today have a lot more going on than plain text and numbered dots.

How could you ever throw away cute selvages like these?

SELVAGES IN THIS BOOK

The selvages in this book are cut from quilting cottons. In the projects, I used only white selvages for 2 reasons: first, probably more than 95 percent of the selvages I have in my collection are white; second, I think that crisp, white lines look best in these modern quilt designs. This is my preference. Throughout the book I will refer to the selvages as white, or mention the “white selvage part.” That said, there is nothing wrong with using whatever selvages you have. Let your own style shine.

Selvages with white edge

BUILDING YOUR SELVAGE STASH

If you already save your selvages, keep doing what you’re doing. If not, then your first step is to dig through your sewing room trash can and rescue the selvages you can. Next, decide to make selvage-saving a habit and an ongoing part of your sewing process. Make a reminder sign for your sewing room if you need to. Make cutting and saving the selvage the first step of any new project. (If you prewash, as I do, wash first, then cut the selvage off after.)

Use your rotary cutter and ruler to slice the selvage nice and straight. Do not snip and rip a selvage, as ripping can distort and wreck the fabric portion that may be showing in your project. It’s up to you how wide you cut the selvage strip, but as a rule it’s always better to cut it wide. If you wish to trim it to a narrower strip later, you can. But you can never add fabric back once it’s cut. The absolute minimum width you should cut is with just ¼˝ of fabric left above the white selvage part. Selvages with less than a ¼˝ of fabric can’t be used for projects in this book.

NOTE  I personally cut all my strips so at least ¾˝ of fabric is showing above the top of the white selvage part.

Cutting a selvage

The following definitions are important:

NARROW-CUT SELVAGE: A selvage cut with ¼˝ of fabric remaining above the top of the white selvage part.

A narrow-cut selvage

WIDE-CUT SELVAGE: A selvage cut with a minimum of ½˝ but ideally and typically ¾˝–1¼˝ of fabric remaining above the top of the white selvage part.

A wide-cut selvage

Pick a spot to store your selvages. It can be a drawer, a small container, or an envelope—wherever—but having them all together will help you easily keep track of how many you have.

If your collection is accumulating too slowly for your liking, consider asking quilting friends to help build your selvage stash—that is, if they don’t keep their own. Maybe offer them a surprise scrap bag or some fabric in return. If you ask fellow quilters for selvages, though, don’t be shy about politely saying that you need them cut with at least that ¼˝ of fabric above the white part—and more if possible. I know from experience that if you don’t specifically ask for it, you will get many selvages cut just at the edge of the white section, and you won’t be able to sew with them.

PRESSING AND INSPECTING YOUR SELVAGES

Just as you like to have your fabric smooth and flat before starting any project, the same should apply for your selvages. Iron them. There is no need to use any starch. A regular pressing with maybe a bit of steam is all you need.

Have a good look at each selvage piece as you’re ironing. This is the perfect time to inspect them all. Do you see any flaws? Remember, these fabric edges were not originally intended to be used, so they may not be perfect like the rest of the fabric. Look for snags or pulls. Look for bumpy edges. Look for crooked edges.

NOTE  Selvages are sometimes a little uneven, but areas that are really rounded out or significantly wider or narrower than the rest will be annoying to use, as they will not allow you to sew a nice, straight line.

Look for dirt or stains. (If a fabric bolt is ever set down, it is the selvage that touches the floor.) You may not find a single selvage in your stash with a flaw, but it’s important to check to avoid sewing frustration or disappointment later.

SELVAGE SEWING IS SIMPLE

The most basic requirement for selvage sewing is the ability to sew a straight line. So anyone who can put together a quilt can certainly do it.

Leave the regular piecing foot on your sewing machine. Leave the regular needle you use for piecing in your sewing machine. Leave your machine set to the basic straight stitch. The only adjustment I make to anything before sewing selvages is that I position my needle so it’s right in the middle of the presser foot I’m using. That makes it easier to see what I’m doing. You might find this helps you too.

You will need only two supplies beyond the usual sewing room suspects (ruler, rotary cutter, seam ripper, and friends) to sew the projects in this book:

A GLUE STICK. A regular inexpensive nontoxic child’s school glue stick works well. Read the label. It may say “all-purpose” or something like “for paper, crafts, and fabric.” As long as “fabric” is mentioned, go for it. It should also be washable. The purpose of the glue stick is to make your sewing job easier. The glue holds the selvage in place—nice and straight and smooth—until you stitch it. Using glue allows you to avoid using pins, which do not keep the selvages flat. It also allows you to work more efficiently, as you can glue many selvages in place before you make a trip to the sewing machine. By using glue, you can design a whole block at once, or even design all the blocks for a quilt at once.

WHITE THREAD. Use whatever type and brand you use for regular piecing, but choose white to match the selvage. (I use 100% polyester.) You will use a top stitch to sew the selvages together or to background fabric, so your stitches will show.

Blocks made using the Overlap Method

SELVAGE SEWING METHODS

I use three methods to sew selvages. Learning these methods and combining them with regular piecing techniques will enable you to sew all the projects in this book. One or more of the methods will be mentioned by name in each of the patterns. Always follow the whole process—beginning with assembly and ending with pressing and trimming—whenever a method is referenced.

Overlap Method

This method can be used for sewing selvages of any width (of course, always assuming that there is ¼˝ of fabric above the white). Typically, I use it for sewing wide-cut selvages because it allows not just the selvages but also little strips of fabric to show in the finished piece. The Overlap Method is often used to make large selvage sections, such as entire blocks or borders.

You’ll need a scrap of fabric and several wide-cut selvages for the Overlap Method. The scrap and selvages can be of varying widths, but each should be the same length as the block you’re making. The overlapped selvages will make up the width of the block. You will trim the completed selvage unit to the exact block size you need after stitching.

1. Start with a scrap rectangle.

Before I go any further, you might be wondering why to use a scrap instead of using all selvages? I have three reasons:

•  Regular fabric is less bulky than the selvage part of the fabric. If you put a selvage piece here, the selvage may end up in the seam later on when you are sewing blocks together. This causes more bulk, which you don’t need. Or, even if only half of the selvage ended up sewn in a seam, text would be partially cut off and it would look like a mistake.

•  Introducing a piece of fabric here allows you to introduce a little bit of a favorite fabric that you don’t have a selvage for, and therefore expands the color and design choices for your project.

•  One less selvage used here means one more selvage you can use elsewhere.

2. Choose a selvage strip. Using the glue stick, apply a line of glue along the back of the white selvage part. Lay this selvage on top of the scrap so that the white selvage part is overlapping it by at least a ¼˝ along the whole length.

Tip

I’m going to reiterate this point because it is so super-duper important: Do not ever be stingy on that ¼˝ overlap. That is the minimum suggested. The overlapping area is your seam allowance. The last thing you want is to make a beautiful quilt and then have it pull apart when you’re using it because your seams are too narrow. Feel free to overlap by more than ¼˝ if you wish.

To help keep your overlapping selvage straight, find something in the fabric pattern beneath it to help line it up. You can also check by placing your ruler over top of it. Or, my preferred method is to trust my eyes. Once it is nicely in position, smooth it into place.

3. Choose a second selvage piece, apply glue, and place it over the first, again making sure at least a ¼˝ overlaps. It should be both straight and parallel to the first selvage. Use your ruler to verify if you’d like. Smooth it into place. Choose a third selvage, glue, and smooth.

Tip

Your completed block will look better if a bit of fabric shows at each end. As you add selvages, use your ruler to check the width of the block, keeping the finished measurement in mind. Plan ahead and adjust the amount you overlap a few selvages so when you finish and trim your block, some fabric remains on both sides. (The scrap fabric should be at one end, and the fabric strip left on the top selvage should be at the other.)

Check the width of your block as you go.

4. Continue choosing and gluing selvages until your block is slightly wider than the size you need. The number of selvages you use will depend on a combination of how wide the selvages were cut in the first place and how much you overlap them. You don’t have to use selvages that are all the same width. A little variety is nice.

Tip

The amount of fabric you leave showing between the selvages is up to you. In general, I find that smaller blocks look better with smaller amounts of fabric showing and larger blocks look better with more showing.

Let the glue dry. It shouldn’t take long. Then move on to sewing.

5. Using white thread, topstitch along the outside edge of the first selvage piece.

The purpose of sewing close to the edge now is so that later when the piece is quilted, the edge of the selvage won’t be snagged or flipped up and then be quilted down folded. (This I know from experience.) Don’t worry that it will not be strong enough or that it will all pull loose when the quilt is used. The selvage edge is different from the rest of the fabric; it is a sturdy, finished edge that will not fray.

Tip

To topstitch is to sew very close to the edge. How close, you ask? Really close. Technically, about a or even a smidge less. But I just say that because I feel I should officially say a number; I know you don’t want to attempt to measure and mark that.

Let’s try something different. Pretend that the white part of the selvage is a road and your sewing line is the equivalent of the curb along the side. Does that make a reasonable visual? Or, pretend the edge of the selvage is a cliff. You would never, ever let your kids walk as close to the edge as you need to sew.

You might want to position your needle in the middle of the presser foot to help you see what you’re doing.

Notice how close the stitched line is to the selvage edge. (Note: The orange thread is used here only to show the stitches better. Sew yours with white thread.)

6. Topstitch all of the other selvages. Press.

Tip

If you are sewing a selvage that has a shaggy finish, consider the part where the shaggy bits start to be the edge. Sew just inside that edge in the solid white section.

7. Use a ruler and rotary cutter to trim your block to the size required. When trimming, make sure that at least ¼˝ of fabric is showing on each end. There should be a scrap piece on one end and a wide-cut selvage piece on the other. Use your ruler to check and carefully consider what will be left on each side before you cut.

Done!

Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks

You can use the Overlap Method to easily make half-square triangle blocks with selvages. You’ll need a square of your quilt’s main fabric and several wide-cut selvages. The selvages do not have to be the same width or length. You will cut the lengths to size as you go. You do not need a piece of scrap fabric.

1. Cut a square of background fabric the same size as your completed block. Place it flat in front of you.

2. Select a selvage strip that is long enough to run diagonally from corner to corner across the background square with a bit extra extending on each side. Cut the selvage if it is significantly longer than what you need. Apply glue to the back of the white selvage part. Line it up diagonally on the square so that the edge of the selvage exactly intersects the opposite corners of the square. Use the 45° line on your ruler to see if you have it nice and straight and positioned correctly. Carefully smooth it across the block.

3. Cut another selvage to size and glue it in place, overlapping the first selvage by at least ¼˝. Keep it straight and parallel to the first selvage. You will be gluing this second selvage onto the first, not onto the back-ground fabric. Again, be sure that a little bit of the selvage extends beyond the sides of the background square.

4. Continue adding selvages until half of the background square is completely covered with selvage strips. Let the glue dry.

5. Topstitch the first selvage in place. Sew very close to the edge, as described in Step 5 of the Overlap Method.

6. Flip the background fabric out of the way before you topstitch the rest of the selvages. Topstitch the remaining selvages to each other, not to the background. The background fabric is not being used as a foundation. Press.

7. Turn the block over. Using the background fabric as a guide, trim the block square using a ruler and rotary cutter. After you have squared up the block, use scissors to trim the extra background fabric away, leaving a ¼˝–½˝ seam allowance. Be careful not to cut the selvage fabric.

Press again. Done!

Making the Process Faster with Chain Piecing

Both regular blocks and half-square triangle blocks made with the Overlap Method can be easily chain pieced to make a whole pile at once. Chain piecing saves both time and thread.

1. To chain piece, glue the selvages in place on all your blocks before you sit down at the sewing machine. Topstitch the first selvage strip on the first block into place. When you’re done, do not take it out of the machine and do not cut the thread.

2. Place the next block up against the one that is already there, as if it is a continuation of the same block. (If you have to lift and then lower your presser foot to do this, that’s okay.) Topstitch the first selvage strip on this next block into place.

3. Repeat with as many blocks as you have. When you have topstitched the first selvage on each block, the blocks will be linked together by the thread in a long chain.

Cut the threads carefully between each block to take them apart.

4. Start the process again, this time topstitching the selvage in the second position on each block. Repeat until all the selvages are sewn.

Side-by-Side Method

In the Side-by-Side Method, selvages are sewn in pairs. This is a great way to really show off wide-cut selvages from fabrics you love.

You will need two wide-cut selvages and a square, rectangle, or strip of background fabric. The selvages do not have to be the same width, but they should be the same length. This length should be either exactly the same as, or just a little longer than, the section of background fabric they need to cover.

1. Place the selvages right sides together, aligning the fabric edges. Sew together with a ¼˝ seam, just as you would in regular piecing. Press the seam open and press the whole unit flat.

2. Apply a small amount of glue on the back of each outer white selvage edge of the pieced unit. Smooth the selvages into place on the background fabric. Make sure the selvage unit is flat, without a raised area in the middle. The ends of the selvages should either exactly touch each side of the background fabric or extend slightly beyond it. If you want the selvages to be perfectly straight, use your ruler to check. Let the glue dry.

3. Topstitch the outer selvage edge on both sides of the pieced unit. Sew very close to the edge, as described in Step 5 of the Overlap Method.

Press. If the selvages extend beyond the background fabric, trim.

4. Flip the whole piece over. Use scissors to cut away the background fabric underneath the pieced selvage section. Leave a ¼˝–½˝ seam allowance on each side. Cutting away the background fabric here helps keep the bulk down when you get to the quilting stage and keeps everything nice and flat.

Press again. Done!

Fold-Under Method

Think of this method as appliqué done selvage style! This method is for narrow-cut selvages. You will need a single selvage and a square, rectangle, or strip of background fabric.

1. If it isn’t already done, trim the selvage so that just ¼˝ of fabric remains above the white selvage part. The selvage strip should be the same length as, or slightly longer than, the background section it will be sewn to.

2. Place the selvage right side down on the ironing board. Fold the ¼˝ fabric part to the back—all along the length of the whole selvage. Give it a quick press to keep the fold in place. Be so, so careful not to burn or steam your fingers.

When you flip it back over, only the white part of the selvage should be visible from the front.

3. Apply glue to the entire back of the selvage. Position the selvage as desired on the background fabric. The ends of the selvage should either exactly touch or extend slightly beyond the edges of the background fabric. Smooth it into place. If you want it to be perfectly straight, use your ruler to check. Let the glue dry.

4. Topstitch down each side of the selvage—the finished side and the folded side. Sew very close to both edges, as described in Step 5 of the Overlap Method.

5. Press. Trim the excess selvage even with the sides of the background fabric.

Done!

SELVAGE SEWING TIPS

Try and Try Again

It takes a little practice to get good at sewing selvages. Because you have to sew very close to the edge, it is easy at first to accidentally sew right off the side. Go slowly. If you find that you veer off a little, just do that section again. White thread is very forgiving and blends right in. Stitching a section over twice or backstitching a bit is no big deal. Or, rip out the seam and do the whole line again. It is no problem to seam rip with selvages. I do it all the time.

A Little Imperfection May Be Inevitable

Selvages also sometimes seem to get crooked during the sewing process, no matter what you do. Try hard to keep them straight to start with when gluing them into position. If they shift a bit and end up a little crooked after they’re sewn, so be it. It happens. Remember that selvages are not perfect like the rest of the quilting cotton they come from and they don’t have the same uniform stretch. They were not originally intended to be sewn with. A little bit crooked is part of the charm and whimsy of selvage quilting. It doesn’t reflect a lack of effort on your part. If your selvage is significantly crooked, however, rip out the stitching and try again.

Long pieces of narrow-cut selvages prepared by the Fold-Under Method are perhaps the most frustrating to work with. Some seem to curl and curve during the pressing process. If you have an especially curved selvage, I would suggest setting it aside and using a different one. Also, you may find it a challenge to consistently fold under the fabric to make a perfectly straight line at the top of the selvage. Do your best, but again, perfection is not likely possible anyway. Learn to embrace a little unevenness.

Press Frequently

Press. Press. Press. Did I emphasize that enough? With selvage sewing, you may have some (or many) slightly rippled fabric areas, both on the background fabric and on the fabric parts of wide-cut selvages. You may also have stiff, unstretchable areas where you have sewn pieces of narrow-cut selvage. The background fabric between intersecting long selvages may ripple a little. The flatter you keep your fabric as you make your project, the better. Press frequently as you construct your piece to ensure the best results.

Avoid Bulky Seams

Sometimes the areas where selvages come together are very bulky and hard to sew through. Go as slowly as you can tolerate. To help keep the bulk down, I always press all my seams open. I would recommend that you do the same. Many quilters don’t do this and prefer pressing seams to the side, but why not give it a try and see if you like it. It really does help keep the whole quilt flatter.

Check the Back

Finally, be sure that the overlapped fabric on the back of each block is flat and not flipped up before you piece blocks together. All the overlapped pieces on the back of the quilt should lie flat just like the seams.

CHOOSING FABRIC

The background fabrics used in the projects in this book are either solids or almost solids. By almost solids, I mean tone-on-tone fabrics, those with tiny designs, and those that look like a true solid from a distance away. These choices are very much in line with what is often seen in modern quilting.

Solid or almost-solid fabrics work well to balance the detail-intense selvage sections of the projects, letting the selvages stand out and be the stars. Don’t let a distracting background fabric steal the show. Audition your fabrics by placing several selvages on top of them to see how they look.

Many different colors look great with a variety of selvages, but do not choose a background color that is too pale or pastel. The white of the selvages should contrast with the main fabric. The selvage edge should look like a nice, crisp line against the background.

Solid fabrics

Almost-solid fabrics

CHOOSING SELVAGES

Sort your selvages before you start any project. Look at the fabric colors, the individual words, and the color dots. Some selvages will be much more detailed than others.

Choose favorite selvages that you want to put in a prominent place in your quilt and set these aside. If you are planning on making several projects, choose what selvages will go with each project best. Decide if you are going to use the plain sections without words or color dots. (I do. Using these sections will stretch your selvage stash further.) Decide if you will use shaggy-edged selvages or just straight-edged ones.

When designing with selvages, think more about the overall look rather than how every single selvage looks with the one immediately next to it. You may have to compromise some of your design choices because you will be working with the selvages you have. You can’t buy more. Think of it as a challenge. Limited resources inspire creativity. You probably will have selvages you’d like to use over and over (I always do), but each piece can be placed only once.

If you decide to use plain selvages without anything printed on them, distribute them throughout the quilt. Also, mix and match selvages with text sections and those with colored number windows. If you have cut multiple strips from a long length of selvage, be sure to spread them out as you place them in the quilt.

SELVAGE ESTIMATES IN PROJECTS

The trickiest part of writing this book was to come up with the selvage amounts needed for each project. Perhaps I was foolish for even trying with the larger quilts, but patterns do need numbers. Why so hard to figure out, you ask? Unfortunately, selvages don’t come on a large, endless roll like ribbon (I wish) that you can buy and cut consecutively, piece by piece. A selvage stash will always be made up of many already-cut pieces both short and long. If what you’re cutting for a project doesn’t divide perfectly into a length of selvage in your stash, you will always have inches of selvage going unused.

For example, chances are very good that every quilter will have many selvage strips 18˝ long—the length that comes from a half-yard or a fat quarter. Now, if a project calls for several selvage strips 6˝ long and everything is cut perfectly, then good. An 18˝ selvage piece can be cut into 3 strips, each 6˝ long, with no waste. But what if you need 5˝ strips? You could cut 3 strips each 5˝ long, but an unusable 3˝ would be left over. In some cases, smaller pieces can be used elsewhere in a pattern, but not always. And little bits just 1˝ or 2˝ long are rarely usable at all.

The width that selvages are cut varies too, and can affect how many strips are needed to construct a block. Plus you may not wish to start measuring a strip from the very end of a selvage; you may wish to fussy cut to include or even center a particular bit of text or colored numbers.

So, the length of selvages listed for the smaller projects will be close to accurate. For the larger projects, I added an estimate (or a guesstimate) to the total to account for some cutting loss, but please use this amount as a guide only. To avoid disappointment when starting a project, and to also give yourself some choice for designing, starting with a bigger pile is always better. The selvages you don’t use in one project can be used in the next.

Cutting efficiently will help you stretch your stash as far as possible. Don’t start cutting a long selvage into smaller lengths if your project also needs some longer pieces. Cut the longest strips you need first. Also, as you design your project, think about cutting individual selvage strips that both please you design-wise and create the least amount of waste. Improve on the adage “measure twice, cut once” by thinking, “design twice, cut once.”

MEASURING YOUR SELVAGE STASH

Wondering how many yards of selvage are in your stash? It’s important to have an idea. It will help for planning projects.

Although selvages can’t be purchased like ribbon (again, if only!), they should be measured like ribbon. This means that a yard of selvage is a long, skinny strip 1 yard in length. You can quickly measure your selvages by placing a yardstick on the table in front of you. Grab your selvages and place them end-to-end along the yardstick. Count by the yard. If a piece goes past the end of the yard stick, put your thumb there and pull it back to the start of the yard again. Imagine yourself measuring fabric just like they do at the quilt shop. Keep lining up more and more pieces. You should be able to measure a large pile of selvages quite quickly.

MAKING PROJECTS A LONG-TERM FINISH

Some of these projects are big (but worth every piece of selvage). It may take a long time to save enough selvages to make some of the large quilts, even with friends adding to your collection. Projects can be done bit by bit over a long period of time. You could make a block every time you have enough selvages, or gradually fill a bag with cut selvage strips to use for a big border. Try to keep in mind that good things are worth waiting for.

I love all these projects. I had fun designing and making them—from choosing the fabrics and selvages to sewing down the bindings. Now it’s your turn to get creating. Whether you have just a few selvages (so far at least) or a giant pile, there’s a project here to try. Make several items and soon your selvage collection will be sewn into edgy pieces to display throughout your home.

It’s time to turn your trash into your treasure.

Sewing machine on. Presser foot down. Ready. Set. Go!

MAKE EVERY SCRAP COUNT

PINCUSHION

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Keep this little pincushion in your sewing room as the perfect reminder to save your selvages. It features just the numbered dots for a great, graphic look.

Materials

Tip

This pincushion is the perfect place to show off selvages with novelty-shaped color windows! They can really add interest to a small project like this.

•  Solid fabric: 1 square at least 5˝ × 5˝ for back

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 9–11 strips, each at least 5˝ long with numbered color windows showing

•  White fabric scrap: 1 rectangle at least 1˝ × 5˝

•  Small amount of polyester stuffing or other filling of your choice

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

SOLID FABRIC FOR PINCUSHION BACK

•  Cut 1 square 5˝ × 5˝.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 9 strips 5˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

WHITE FABRIC SCRAP

•  Cut 1 rectangle 1˝ × 5˝

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance throughout.

Make the Front

1. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangle and the selvages to make a selvage block 5˝ × 5˝.

Because the narrow-cut selvages are edged with only ¼˝ of colored fabric, each colored section will be covered up when you overlap the adjoining strip. Only the white selvage parts will show on the front of the pincushion. It will likely take 9 or 10 selvages to complete the block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine.

2. Glue, sew, press, and trim.

Tip

When trimming the block to size, it is okay (and best) to keep the ¼˝ of colored fabric on the last (top) selvage. This bit of fabric will be stitched into the seam, so it will not show on the finished pincushion.

Sew the Pincushion

1. Place the selvage pincushion front and the 5˝ square back right sides together. Sew around the outside with a ¼˝ seam, leaving a 1˝ opening on the bottom edge. Backstitch to secure the seam on both sides of the opening.

2. Trim corners at a diagonal and turn right side out. Use a pen (with the cap on), knitting needle, or another blunt-tipped tool to push the corners all the way out.

FINISH THE PINCUSHION

1. Fill with polyester stuffing or whatever filling you’ve chosen.

2. Use a ladder stitch to hand-sew the opening closed.

Load with pins and enjoy!

RETRO-STRIPED

CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Selvages create the look of stripes on these vintage-inspired ornaments. Modern and traditional combine on your Christmas tree.

Materials

Amounts listed will make a set of 4 ornaments, 1 from each pattern shape. Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Christmas fabric: ¼ yard for backing

•  Wide-cut selvages: Approximately 40 strips, each 2˝–4˝ long

•  Scrap fabric: 4 rectangles, each at least 1˝ × 2˝

•  Template plastic, freezer paper, or cardboard

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

•  Metallic or colored thread for hanging loop

Cutting

CHRISTMAS FABRIC FOR BACKING

Using the patterns, cut a template for each ornament. Use the templates to cut backing fabric for each ornament.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut selvage strips as you go during construction.

CONSTRUCTION

Steps in construction are to make 1 ornament at a time.

Make the Front

Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangle and the selvages to make an ornament front.

Use the same template that you used to cut the backing fabric as a guide. Place a scrap in the bottom position, covering and extending just beyond the tip of the template. Begin to overlap selvages from the scrap upward. Each selvage strip should extend slightly beyond the template edges. Use as many selvages as you need to cover the template completely. It will likely take 7–10 strips. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine.

Glue and sew the scrap and selvages (to each other, not to the template). Press. Trim selvage excess using the template as a guide. The selvage front of the ornament and the backing fabric should be exactly the same size.

Tip

If you are confident with sewing a perfectly straight line across your selvages, try using a colored or metallic thread as an extra decorative touch!

Make the Ornament

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance throughout.

1. About ⅔ of the way down a long side of the ornament front, staystitch a 1˝ line about ⅛˝ from the edge. This is the area you will be leaving unsewn when putting the ornament together, and the stay stitching will keep the selvages from pulling loose when you turn the ornament inside out.

2. Place the selvage front and the backing right sides together. Sew around the outside with a ¼˝ seam, leaving the 1˝ portion that you staystitched unsewn. Backstitch to secure the seam on both sides of the opening.

3. Trim corners at a diagonal and turn right side out. Use a pen (with the cap on), a knitting needle, or another blunt-tipped tool to poke the corners all the way out. Press. Be sure that the fabric at the opening is folded inside nice and straight and pressed flat.

4. On the front of the ornament, topstitch around the perimeter, between ⅛˝ and ¼˝ from the edge. Your aim is that the unsewn fabric tucked inside at the opening will be caught and held in place by this stitching. If it isn’t, don’t worry because with the fold well-pressed you won’t be able to tell anyway. This top-stitched line is also a decorative element. Press.

FINISH THE ORNAMENT

Thread a needle with metallic or colored thread and loop through the top of the ornament. Knot and hang.

Fa la la la la, la la la lovely!

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11124-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: http://tinyurl.com/11124-patterns-download

ZIP LINES

TABLE SET

TECHNIQUE

Side-by-Side Method

Fold-Under Method

Selvages become abstract lines in these projects. They don’t take many selvages at all and should go together in a zip! You can make just the runner or make the matching place mats too for a complete modern table set.

Zip Lines Table Runner

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 1¼ yards for background and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 10 strips, each at least 16˝ long

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 6 strips, each at least 16˝ long

•  Backing: 1⅛ yards

•  Batting: 19˝ × 56˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BACKGROUND

•  Cut 1 strip 14½˝ × WOF.
Subcut a rectangle 14½˝ × 40˝.

•  Cut 1 rectangle 12˝ × 14½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 4 strips 2¼˝ × WOF.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 10 strips 16˝ long.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 6 strips 16˝ long.

Tip

If you’re making a matching set of the table runner and place mats, you’ll probably use the same background fabric for both projects. It’s also nice to use a few of the same selvages to really make the set look coordinated. Perhaps set aside your long selvages saved from larger fabric cuts for these projects.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

Make the Background

Sew the 14½˝ × 40˝ background rectangle to the 14½˝ × 12˝ background rectangle to create a base 14½˝ × 51½˝. Press.

Prepare the Selvages

1. Sort the 10 wide-cut selvage strips into 5 pairs. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method, sew the pairs together.

2. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 6 narrow-cut selvages.

Make the Table Runner

1. Plan the arrangement of your selvages on the background fabric. You do not need placement measurements to design the runner, as it is an abstract design. Follow the table runner assembly diagram if you would like to arrange the selvages the same way I did. Or do your own thing. Angle selvages slightly or place them straight. The ends of each selvage should extend to the sides of the background fabric or beyond it.

2. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method for the wide-cut selvages and the Fold-Under Method for the narrow-cut selvages, glue and sew each selvage in place. Press. Trim the excess selvages even with the sides of the background fabric.

FINISH THE TABLE RUNNER

Quilt and bind as desired.

Tip

Straight-line quilting is the perfect complement to this project. Start by quilting lines just ¼˝ from each selvage edge on both sides. Add additional straight or angled quilting lines randomly to give even more interest.

Zip Lines Place Mats

Materials

Amounts listed are to make a set of 4 place mats. Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 1⅓ yards for background and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 8 strips, each at least 14˝ long

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 6 strips, each at least 14˝ long

•  Backing: 1⅓ yards

•  Batting: 4 rectangles, each 15˝ × 22˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BACKGROUND

•  Cut 2 strips 12½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 4 rectangles 12½˝ × 19½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 8 strips 2¼˝ × WOF.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 8 strips 14˝ long.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 6 strips 14˝ long.

CONSTRUCTION

Prepare the Selvages

1. Sort the 8 wide-cut selvage strips into 4 pairs. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method, sew pairs together.

2. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 6 narrow-cut selvages.

Make the Place Mats

1. Arrange the selvages according to the place mat assembly diagrams. Note that 2 place mats have 2 narrow selvages and 2 have just 1 narrow selvage.

Place mat assembly

2. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method for the wide-cut selvages and the Fold-Under Method for the narrow-cut selvages, glue and sew each selvage in place. Press. Trim the excess selvages even with the sides of the background fabric.

FINISH THE PLACE MATS

Quilt and bind as desired.

Set on table. Promptly invite guests over to admire your creations.

PICK A COLOR

PILLOW

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Fold-Under Method

Nine simple blocks, each featuring a single color of selvages, combine for a cheerful pillow.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: ½ yard for pillow envelope back

•  Wide-cut selvages: 5–7 strips, each at least 5½˝ long, from each of 9 different colors

•  Narrow-cut selvage: 1 strip at least 15½˝ long

•  Scrap fabric: 1 rectangle at least 1½˝ × 5½˝ from each of 9 different colors

•  Backing: 17½˝ × 17½˝ (This will be inside the finished pillow and will not show, so it can be an ugly fabric you want to use up.)

•  Batting: 17½˝ × 17½˝

•  Pillow form: 16˝ × 16˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR PILLOW ENVELOPE BACK

•  Cut 1 strip 15½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 12˝ × 15½˝.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  From each of the 9 selvage colors, cut 5 strips 5½˝ long to start. Cut additional selvages, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  From each of the 9 colors, cut 1 rectangle 1½˝ × 5½˝.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGE FOR PILLOW BACK

•  Cut 1 strip 15½˝ long.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Selvage Blocks

Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangle and the selvages to make a 5½˝ × 5½˝ block in each color. It will likely take 5 selvage strips for each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Make 9 blocks.

Make the Pillow Front

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Referring to the pillow front assembly diagram, arrange the selvage blocks in a layout of 3 blocks across and 3 blocks down, alternating the direction of the selvage lines in every other block.

2. Sew the blocks in each row together. Press.

3. Sew the rows together. Press.

4. Use the backing and batting to quilt as desired.

Tip

Very simple quilting of straight lines just off to the side of each seam gives a clean look and is quick to do.

5. Trim quilted pillow front to 15½˝ × 15½˝.

Make the Pillow Envelope Back

1. Fold and press a ¼˝ edge to the back along 1 long side of a 12˝ × 15½˝ rectangle. Fold and press the same edge again, this time ½˝ to the back, to enclose the raw edge of the fabric. Topstitch along the folded-under edge. Press. Set aside.

2. Fold and press a ¼˝ edge to the back along 1 of the long sides of the remaining 12˝ × 15½˝ rectangle. Fold and press the same edge again, this time 1˝ to the back. Topstitch along the folded-under edge. Press.

3. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 15½˝ narrow-cut selvage. Center the selvage over the top-stitched line on the rectangle from Step 2 and glue in place. Sew. Press.

Make the Pillow

1. Place the pillow front on a flat surface with its right side facing up.

2. Referring to the pillow assembly diagrams, place the pillow back with the selvage trim right side down (so the selvage side is against the pillow front). Place the selvage edge toward the center of the pillow and align the 3 other outer edges with the outer edges of the pillow front. Pin.

3. Place the remaining pillow back right side down. Place the folded-under edge toward the center and align the outer edges of the back with the outer edges of the opposite side of the pillow front. The pillow backs will overlap in the center. Pin.

4. Sew with a ¼˝ seam around the outside edge of the pillow. Backstitch several times where the edges of the back overlap to give this area added strength. It will be quite thick, especially at the narrow-selvage trim on the back, so go slowly.

FINISH THE PILLOW

1. Trim corners at a diagonal and turn right side out. Use a pen (with the cap on), a knitting needle, or another blunt-tipped tool to push the corners all the way out.

2. Place pillow form inside. Squeeze, fluff, and poke until the form nicely fills out your new pillow.

SELVAGE LATTICEWORK

ACCENT PILLOW

TECHNIQUE

Fold-Under Method

Latticework made with selvages gives a crisp, clean look to this accent pillow. Use a bright background color to really make this piece pop! It doesn’t take many selvages at all for a fabulous result.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: ⅞ yard for pillow

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 4 strips, each at least 9˝ long; 5 strips, each at least 17˝ long; and 2 strips, each at least 24˝ long

•  Backing: 18½˝ × 18½˝ (This will be inside the finished pillow and will not show, so it can be an ugly fabric you want to use up.)

•  Batting: 18½˝ × 18½˝

•  Marking pen

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

•  Pillow form 16˝ × 16˝

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR PILLOW FRONT

•  Cut 1 square 16½˝ × 16½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR PILLOW ENVELOPE BACK

•  Cut 1 strip 12˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 12˝ × 16½˝.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES FOR PILLOW FRONT

•  Cut 4 strips 9˝ long.

•  Cut 4 strips 17˝ long.

•  Cut 2 strips 24˝ long.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGE FOR PILLOW BACK

•  Cut 1 strip 16½˝ long.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance throughout.

Make the Pillow Front

1. On each side of the 16½˝ square, use a ruler and marking pen to place a small mark at the edge of the fabric 5½˝ and 11˝ from the corner.

2. Use the ruler and marking pen to draw diagonal lines joining the marks in 2 directions. Also draw diagonal lines from corner to corner in each direction. This creates the lattice design for your selvages.

3. Referring to the Fold-Under Method, prepare the selvages.

4. Plan the arrangement of the selvages by centering a selvage over each drawn line. Use the 24˝ selvages in the middle. Working your way outward, use the 17˝ selvages and then the 9˝ selvages.

Tip

When choosing and placing the selvages, notice how they look in the areas where they cross. If you have some areas of plain white selvage with no text or color dots, let those intersect with printed selvages going in the other direction. It’s okay to let text or dots cross over each other in a few places. But if there’s too much crossover, the design can start to look cluttered.

5. Place, glue, and sew the first 5 selvages going across the pillow in 1 direction. Press.

6. Place, glue, and sew the selvages going in the opposite direction. Press. Trim excess selvages.

Tip

I know you wouldn’t, but on the off-chance you are thinking you can speed things up, here is a friendly warning: Do not glue all 10 selvages to the background at once and then attempt to sew them. They will shift slightly in the spots where they cross and not look as clean or nice on the finished pillow.

7. Use the backing and batting to quilt as desired.

8. Trim the quilted pillow front to 16½˝ × 16½˝.

Make the Pillow Envelope Back

1. Fold and press a ¼˝ edge to the back along 1 long side of a 12˝ × 16½˝ rectangle. Fold and press the same edge again, this time ½˝ to the back, to enclose the raw edge of the fabric. Topstitch along the folded-under edge. Press. Set aside.

2. Fold and press a ¼˝ edge to the back along 1 long side of the remaining 12˝ × 16½˝ rectangle. Fold and press the same edge again, this time 1˝ to the back. Topstitch along the folded-under edge. Press.

3. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 16½˝ narrow-cut selvage. Center the selvage over the top-stitched line on the rectangle from Step 2 and glue in place. Sew. Press.

Make the Pillow

Using the quilted pillow front and the prepared backing rectangles, follow the directions in the Make the Pillow section of the Pick a Color Pillow instructions.

Tip

The front of the pillow may have shrunk a bit now with the topstitching of the long selvages and quilting. You may have to trim a bit off the backing rectangles to get the pillow front and back to match perfectly.

FINISH THE PILLOW

1. Trim corners at a diagonal and turn right side out. Use a pen (with the cap on), a knitting needle, or another blunt-tipped tool to push the corners all the way out.

2. Place pillow form inside. Squeeze, fluff, and poke until the form nicely fills out your new pillow.

CANDY STRIPE

PILLOW

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Such a sweet pillow.
What more can I say?

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: ½ yard for pillow ends

•  Wide-cut selvages: At least 12–18 strips, each at least 20˝ long

•  Scrap fabric: 1 rectangle at least 2˝ × 20˝

•  Ribbon: 1 yard for pillow ties

•  Pillow form: Either a 5˝ × 14˝ or 6˝ × 14˝ neck-roll pillow form

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC

•  Cut 1 strip 13˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 13˝ × 20˝.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 12 strips 20˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  Cut 1 rectangle 2˝ × 20˝.

RIBBON

•  Cut 2 lengths 18˝ each.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance throughout.

Make the Pillow Cover

1. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangle and the selvages to make a selvage block 14½˝ × 20˝ for the center section of the pillow. Glue, sew, press, and trim.

2. Referring to the pillow cuff assembly diagram, add a solid-fabric cuff onto 1 end of the selvage block. Place a 13˝ × 20˝ solid rectangle with the right side facing up on a flat surface, with a long edge at the top. Place the selvage block right side facing down on top of it, aligning a long edge of the selvage block with the top long edge of the solid rectangle. Roll up the selvage fabric toward the aligned edge, exposing the solid fabric beneath.

Pillow cuff assembly

Lift up and flip the solid fabric so the selvage block is rolled inside it and the wrong side of the solid fabric is exposed. Align the other long edge of the solid fabric with the 2 layers already at the top edge. Pin the top edge, where 3 layers should be meeting now—the solid fabric, the selvage block, and the other end of the solid fabric. Sew the top edge with a ¼˝ seam, backstitching at the start and end.

3. Turn right side out. Press. The selvage pillow cover will now have a cuff of the solid fabric with no raw edges showing on either side.

4. Using the remaining 13˝ × 20˝ solid fabric rectangle, repeat Steps 2 and 3 on the other end of the selvage block to create a second cuff. Press.

The selvage block finished with 2 cuffs

5. To sew the pillow cover together with an enclosed seam, fold the finished pillow cover in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, matching the seams at the fabric cuffs. Pin. Sew the long edge with a ¼˝ seam.

Wrong sides together

6. Trim the excess seam allowance to an ⅛˝.

7. Turn the pillow right sides together. Sew the same edge with a ¼˝ seam. Turn right side out.

FINISH THE PILLOW

1. Pull the pillow cover over the pillow form. Center the cover so that the ends of the pillow form align with the ends of the selvage sections, with the solid fabric cuffs extending beyond.

2. Using a ribbon piece for each end, gather the fabric that extends beyond the form and tie it tightly closed. Double knot, then tie in a bow.

It will look like a candy in a wrapper now. Yummy!

SEWING ROOM SELVAGE

VALANCE

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

The perfect accent for your sewing room, this window valance displays your favorite selvages for ongoing creative inspiration.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  White fabric: ¾ yard for backing

•  Wide-cut selvages: At least 36–40 selvages, each at least 10˝ long

•  Scrap fabric: 1 rectangle, at least 1½˝ × 10˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

•  Marking pen

Tip

The valance can easily be made wider by using more selvages and cutting a larger backing. The ¾ yard listed in the materials for backing is enough to make a slightly wider valance.

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

WHITE FABRIC FOR BACKING

•  Cut 1 strip 10˝ × WOF.
Subcut a rectangle 10˝ × 40˝.

•  Cut 1 rectangle 6½˝ × 10˝.

WHITE FABRIC FOR ROD POCKET

•  Cut 1 strip 3½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 1 rectangle 3½˝ × 40˝.

•  Cut 1 rectangle 3½˝ × 6½˝.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 36 strips 10˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  Cut 1 rectangle 1½˝ × 10˝.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Valance Front

Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangle and the selvages to make a selvage rectangle 46˝ × 10˝ for the valance front. Glue, sew, press, and trim.

Make the Valance

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Sew the 40˝ × 10˝ and 6½˝ × 10˝ backing rectangles together to make a valance back 46˝ × 10˝. Press.

2. Place the valance front and the valance back right sides together. Sew with a ¼˝ seam allowance around 2 long sides and 1 short side. On the final short side, sew with a ½˝ seam and leave a 2˝ space unsewn for turning.

3. Trim corners at a diagonal and turn right side out. Press. Sew ¼˝ from the edge around the outer edge of the valance, including the section previously left open. This sewn line will close the opening. Press.

Make the Rod Pocket

1. Sew the 3½˝ × 40˝ and the 3½˝ × 6½˝ rectangles together to make a rod pocket 3½˝ × 46˝. Press.

2. Fold and press ¼˝ to the back on each short side of the rod pocket. Fold and press the same edges ¼˝ to the back again, to enclose the raw edges of the fabric. Topstitch along the 2 folded-under edges. Repeat this process on each long side of the rod pocket, but do not sew yet.

3. On the back of the valance, measure and lightly mark a line 1½˝ from the top. Place the rod pocket with the top edge aligned along the 1½˝ mark on the valance. Topstitch along the top and bottom edges of the rod pocket to secure it to the valance. Press.

FINISH THE VALANCE

There’s nothing left to do except hang it up!

YOU’RE A SELVAGE SUPERSTAR

WALL QUILT

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Fold-Under Method

Just as real stars sparkle against the night sky, this selvage star really stands out on a black background. This quilt can be hung on the wall or used as a table centerpiece.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Black fabric: 1⅓ yards for blocks and border

•  Wide-cut selvages: 12 yards

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 4 strips, each at least 25˝ long; 4 strips, each at least 17˝ long; and 4 strips, each at least 9½˝ long

•  Binding: ⅜ yard

•  Backing: 1¼ yards

•  Batting: 40˝ × 40˝

•  Glue stick

•  Marking pen

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

BLACK FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 3 strips 6˝ × WOF.
Subcut 16 squares 6˝ × 6˝.

BLACK FABRIC FOR BORDERS

•  Cut 4 strips 6˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 6˝ × 22½˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 6˝ × 33½˝.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 12 strips 9˝ long to start. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 4 strips 25˝ long.

•  Cut 4 strips 17˝ long.

•  Cut 4 strips 9½˝ long.

BINDING

•  Cut 4 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Half-Square Triangle Blocks

Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, use 12 of the solid 6˝ squares and the wide-cut selvages to make half-square triangle blocks.

Use a 9˝ selvage strip for the diagonal center of each block. Cut and overlap other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take 4 or 5 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 12 blocks.

Make the Quilt Top

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Arrange the 12 half-square triangle blocks and the 4 solid 6˝ squares to form a star as shown in the quilt assembly diagram. Sew the blocks in each row together. Press. Sew the rows together. Press.

2. Attach a 6˝ × 22½˝ border rectangle to each side of the star. Press.

3. Attach a 6˝ × 33½˝ border rectangle to the top and bottom of the star. Press.

Add the Selvage Frame

1. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the narrow-cut selvages.

2. Measure 16¾˝ from each corner of the quilt top to find the center point of each side. Make a tiny mark right at the fabric edge. Use a ruler and marking pen to draw 4 diagonal lines, each joining 2 of the middle points. Each line should pass just by the star tip points.

3. Measure approximately 3¾˝ from each line and draw a parallel line. You will know you have this line in the right position if it passes exactly through the seam intersections at the outer corner blocks of the star.

4. Measure approximately 3¾˝ from each line from Step 3 and draw a third parallel line. You will know you have this line in the right position if the outer edge touches the intersection of the border seams.

5. Arrange and glue the narrow-cut selvages. Place the 25˝ lengths to cover each inner line, the 17˝ lengths on the middle lines, and the 9½˝ lengths on the outer lines. (Each will extend a bit beyond the sides and can be trimmed later.) For the lines closest to the star, do not let the selvages overlap the star points. For the other lines, center the selvage over the line.

Tip

Look at the words on the selvages. If you plan to hang the quilt on the wall, you could arrange your selvages so all of them can be read right side up. If you plan to use the star as a table centerpiece, you could arrange the selvages so they are right side up at each seat at the table.

6. Using the Fold-Under Method, glue, sew, press, and trim.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Admire. Make a wish on your star if you’d like.

YOU ZIG, I’LL ZAG

COUCH QUILT

TECHNIQUE

• Overlap Method

• Fold-Under Method

Here’s a big quilt made from a little selvage pile. But it has a lot of impact and a very modern look. When not in use, it is the perfect size to be a decorative accent folded over the back of your couch. This goes together quite quickly. Maybe you’ll even want to make more than one!

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 3 yards for blocks, main sections, and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 15 yards

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 5 yards

•  Backing: 3 yards

•  Batting: 53˝ × 69˝

•  Glue stick

•  Marking pen

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 6 strips 6˝ × WOF.
Subcut 32 squares 6˝ × 6˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BORDERS

•  Cut 1 large strip 44½˝ × WOF.
Measuring lengthwise, subcut 1 rectangle 44½˝ × 6˝ and 1 rectangle 44½˝ × 33½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 6 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 16 strips 9˝ long to start. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 16 strips 9˝ long.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Blocks

1. Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, use 16 of the 6˝ solid squares and the wide-cut selvages to make half-square triangle blocks.

Use a 9˝ selvage strip for the diagonal center of each block. Cut and overlap other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take either 4 or 5 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 16 blocks.

2. Mark a diagonal line, corner to corner, on the front of the 16 remaining 6˝ solid squares. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare and center a 9˝ narrow-cut selvage on the diagonal line of each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 16.

Make the Quilt Top

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, arrange the half-square triangle blocks and the blocks with a single selvage strip in a layout of 8 blocks across and 4 blocks down, alternating the direction of the blocks to create a zigzag pattern.

2. Sew the blocks together in each row. Press.

3. Sew the 4 rows together. Press.

4. Attach the 6˝ × 44½˝ solid rectangle to the bottom of the selvage section. Press.

5. Attach the 33½˝ × 44½˝ solid rectangle to the top of the selvage section. Press.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

SELVAGE MAZE

CHILD’S QUILT

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

This is the perfect cuddle quilt. Put it on the bed, or lay it on the floor to drive toy cars around the maze. Mix in selvages from novelty fabrics and it also becomes an I-Spy quilt.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 1⅓ yards for strips, blocks, and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 22 yards

•  Scrap fabric: 23 rectangles, each at least 1½˝ × 3˝

•  Backing: 1½ yards

•  Batting: 40˝ × 50˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 210 strips 3˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  Cut 23 rectangles 1½˝ × 3˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BORDERS

This quilt involves many cut pieces of many sizes. To help keep everything as simple as possible, cutting and construction information is organized by section, starting with the center of the quilt and moving out border by border.

Center

•  Cut 1 strip 3˝ × WOF.
Subcut 1 rectangle 3˝ × 13˝. Save the rest of the strip to cut blocks for the next border.

Border 1

•  Cut 2 squares 3˝ × 3˝.

Border 2

•  Cut 2 strips 3˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 18˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 13˝.

Border 3

•  Cut 3 squares 3˝ × 3˝ from leftover pieces of previously cut strips.

Border 4

•  Cut 4 strips 3˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 23˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 28˝.

Border 5

•  Cut 6 squares 3˝ × 3˝ from leftover pieces of previously cut strips.

Border 6

•  Cut 4 strips 3˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 38˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 3˝ × 33˝.

Binding

•  Cut 4 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

Border 1

1. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangles and the selvages to make the following:

•  4 selvage rectangles 3˝ × 8˝

•  2 selvage squares 3˝ × 3˝

2. For the right side border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ selvage square

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 8˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 13˝. Press.

3. For the left side border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 8˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ selvage square

Total length = 13˝. Press.

4. Attach the side borders to the 3˝ × 13˝ solid center rectangle. Press.

5. Attach a remaining 3˝ × 8˝ selvage rectangle to the top and the bottom of the quilt. Press.

Border 2

1. Attach a 3˝ × 18˝ solid rectangle to each side. Press.

2. Attach a 3˝ × 13˝ solid rectangle to the top and the bottom. Press.

Border 3

1. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangles and the selvages to make the following:

•  3 selvage rectangles 3˝ × 5½˝

•  2 selvage rectangles 3˝ × 10½˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 15½˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 23˝

2. For the right side border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 15½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 5½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 23˝. Press.

3. For the left side border, use a 3˝ × 23˝ selvage rectangle.

4. For the top border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 5½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 18˝. Press.

5. For bottom border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 5½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 18˝. Press.

6. Attach the side borders. Press.

7. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 4

1. Attach a 3˝ × 28˝ solid rectangle to each side. Press.

2. Attach a 3˝ × 23˝ solid rectangle to the top and bottom. Press.

Border 5

1. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangles and the selvages to make the following:

•  2 selvage rectangles 3˝ × 5½˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 8˝

•  4 selvage rectangles 3˝ × 10½˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 13˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 15½˝

•  1 selvage rectangle 3˝ × 20½˝

2. For the right side border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 13˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 5½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 33˝. Press.

3. For the left side border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 20½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 33˝. Press.

4. For the top border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 8˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 5½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 28˝. Press.

5. For the bottom border, sew together in order:

•  3˝ × 10½˝ selvage rectangle

•  3˝ solid square

•  3˝ × 15½˝ selvage rectangle

Total length = 28˝. Press.

6. Attach the side borders. Press.

7. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 6

1. Attach a 3˝ × 38˝ solid rectangle to each side. Press.

2. Attach a 3˝ × 33˝ solid rectangle to the top and bottom. Press.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Enjoy this fabulous (note I resisted the urge to say a-maze-ing) quilt!

CROOKED PICKET

RAIL FENCE QUILT

TECHNIQUE

Side-by-Side Method

This is a modern selvage-infused twist on a traditional rail fence quilt. In this case, a single fence picket is represented in each block. Place your selvages at an angle to make the pickets crooked and give the quilt a bit of movement.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 4 yards for blocks and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 40 yards, each strip at least 8˝ long

•  Backing: 3½ yards

•  Batting: 61˝ × 74˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 16 strips 7˝ × WOF.
Subcut 80 squares 7˝ × 7˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 7 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 160 strips 8˝ long.

CONSTRUCTION

Pair the Selvages

Group 160 selvages into 80 pairs. You may wish to pair selvages that are quite similar or perhaps make each couple contrast considerably. Selvages of varying widths paired together are fine and even encouraged. Sew pairs using the Side-by-Side Method. Make 80.

Make the Blocks

For each 7˝ square, either find (using a ruler) or estimate the center. Place a selvage pair down the approximate center of the block, leaning either slightly right or slightly left of the center.

Make 40 with the selvages angled slightly left and 40 with the selvages angled slightly right. Make the angle as slight or as sharp as you like, as long as the selvage extends completely to the edges of the block. For variety, you can make a few appear to be almost perfectly straight. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method, glue, sew, press, and trim.

Make the Quilt Top

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Separate the right-angled blocks and the left-angled blocks into 2 stacks.

Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, arrange the blocks in a layout of 8 blocks across and 10 blocks down, alternating between right- and left-angled blocks and rotating every other block. Start each row with a right-angled block, whether it will be placed vertically or horizontally. (This might sound confusing, but it really is easy! Just keep double-checking the quilt assembly diagram if unsure.)

2. Sew the blocks in each row together. Press.

3. Sew the rows together. Press.

Quilt assembly

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Wrap around your body while reading a book.

WHICH WAY TO THE FABRIC STORE?

QUILT

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Big, bold arrows come together for a modern block with a lot of impact.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 3¾ yards for blocks, sashing, borders, and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 48 yards

•  Scrap fabric: 18 rectangles, each at least 1½˝ × 4½˝

•  Backing: 4 yards

•  Batting: 70˝ × 70˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 5 strips 4½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 36 squares 4½˝ × 4½˝.

•  Cut 12 strips 2½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 36 rectangles 2½˝ × 12½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR SASHING

•  Cut 6 strips 2½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 40˝.

Subcut 6 rectangles 2½˝ × 16½˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 13˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BORDERS

•  Cut 6 strips 5˝ × WOF.
Subcut 4 rectangles 5˝ × 40˝.

From each of 2 strips, subcut 1 rectangle 5˝ × 13˝ and 1 rectangle 5˝ × 22˝ (2 total of each).

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 7 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 36 strips 7˝ long to start for the points of the arrow blocks. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

•  Cut 200 strips 4½˝ long to start for the straight part of the arrow blocks. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  Cut 18 rectangles 1½˝ × 4½˝.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Selvage Blocks

1. Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, use the 4½˝ solid squares and the selvages to make half-square triangle blocks for the arrow points.

Use a 7˝ selvage strip for the diagonal center of each block. Cut and overlap other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take either 3 or 4 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 36 blocks.

2. Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangles and the selvages to make 4½˝ × 12½˝ selvage rectangles for the arrow stems.

Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take 11 or 12 selvages to make each rectangle. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 18 blocks.

Make the Arrow Blocks

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Sort the 36 half-square triangle blocks into 18 pairs. Place a pair of blocks right sides together, with the selvage sides aligned. Sew together along a side where the selvages meet so that, when pressed open, the 2 blocks will form a selvage arrow point. Press. Make 18 pairs.

2. Sew a 2½˝ × 12½˝ solid rectangle to each side of a 4½˝ × 12½˝ selvage rectangle to make an arrow stem. Press. Make 18.

3. Sew an arrow point to an arrow stem. Make 18 arrow units.

4. Sew 2 arrow units from Step 3 together with the points in opposite directions, as shown in the Block A and Block B assembly diagrams, to make a 16½˝ × 16½˝ arrow block. Make 8 A Blocks and 1 B Block.

NOTE  I chose to use 1 Block B as an interesting modern variation to make the middle row different and to add emphasis to the center of the quilt. (The use of 1 Block B makes both outer arrows along the top of the middle row point inward.) You might want to make 9 blocks like Block A instead for a more typical arrangement. Or mix and match A and B Blocks however you’d like.

Block A assembly

Block B assembly

Make the Long Sashing

Sew a 2½˝ × 40˝ solid rectangle to a 2½˝ × 13˝ solid rectangle to make a sashing strip 2½˝ × 52½˝.Make 2.

Make the Borders

1. Sew a 5˝ × 40˝ solid rectangle to a 5˝ × 13˝ solid rectangle to make a strip 5˝ × 52½˝. Make 2 for side borders.

2. Sew a 5˝ × 40˝ solid rectangle to a 5˝ × 22˝ solid rectangle to make a strip 5˝ × 61½˝. Make 2 for top and bottom borders.

Make the Quilt Top

1. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, arrange the blocks in a layout of 3 blocks across by 3 blocks down with sashing between blocks and rows. Alternate the direction of the arrows in every other block. The B Block goes in the third position of the second row.

2. Sew the blocks and sashing in each row together. Press.

3. Sew the rows and long sashing together. Press.

4. Attach the side borders to the quilt. Press.

5. Attach the top and bottom borders to the quilt. Press.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Point yourself in the direction of the couch.

Quilt assembly

WHICH WAY? COFFEE TABLE RUNNER

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

Use the same modern arrow blocks as in the quilt to make this little coffee table runner.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 1⅛ yards for blocks, border, and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 10 yards

•  Scrap fabric: 4 rectangles, each at least 1½˝ × 4½˝

•  Backing: ¾ yard

•  Batting: 24˝ × 40˝

•  White thread

•  Glue stick

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 3 strips 2½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 8 rectangles 2½˝ × 12½˝.

•  Cut 1 strip 4½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 8 squares 4½˝ × 4½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BORDER

•  Cut 3 strips 2½˝ × WOF.
Subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 36½˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 16½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 4 strips 2¼˝ × WOF.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

Make the Arrow Blocks

1. Follow the construction steps for the Which Way to the Fabric Store? Quilt to make 8 selvage half-square triangle blocks and 4 selvage rectangles. Use the selvage blocks and solid rectangles to complete 4 arrows.

2. Sew a pair of arrows together to form an arrow block 16½˝ × 16½˝. Make 2 blocks, either Block A or Block B (or 1 of each), whichever you prefer.

Make the Table Runner

1. Place the 2 arrow blocks side by side. Experiment with turning them around until the arrows point in a way you like. Sew them together. Press.

2. Attach a 2½˝ × 16½˝ border rectangle to each side. Press.

3. Attach a 2½˝ × 36½˝ border rectangle to the top and bottom. Press.

Table runner assembly

FINISH THE TABLE RUNNER

Quilt and bind as desired.

STEPPING SIDEWAYS OVER THE RAINBOW

QUILT

TECHNIQUE

Overlap Method

A bright and cheery quilt to complement your selvage collection with every color of the rainbow!

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Red fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Orange fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Yellow fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Green fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Blue/turquoise fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Indigo/dark blue fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Purple fabric: ⅓ yard for blocks

•  Binding: ⅝ yard (Or, you can use the leftover solid fabric for a scrappy rainbow binding.)

•  Wide-cut selvages: 65 yards

•  Scrap fabric: 63 rectangles, each at least 1½˝ × 4¼˝

•  Backing: 3½ yards

•  Batting: 61˝ × 76˝

•  Glue stick

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

From each of the 7 solid colors:

•  Cut 2 strips 4¼˝ × WOF.
Subcut 9 rectangles 4¼˝ × 8˝ (63 total).

BINDING

•  Cut 7 strips 2½˝ × WOF. (Or for a scrappy rainbow binding, cut 1 strip 2½˝ × WOF from each of the 7 solid-color fabrics.)

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES

•  Cut 450 strips 4¼˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

SCRAP FABRIC

•  Cut 63 rectangles 1½˝ × 4¼˝.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Selvage Blocks

Referring to the Overlap Method, use the scrap rectangles and the selvages to make 4¼˝ × 8˝ selvage rectangles. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take 7 or 8 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 63 blocks.

Make the Quilt Top

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, arrange the solid rectangles and selvage blocks in a layout of 14 blocks across and 9 down. Follow the colors of the rainbow in order from left to right: red, orange, yellow, green, blue/turquoise, indigo/dark blue, violet/purple. Alternate between solid rectangles and selvage blocks. Use each solid color in 2 consecutive columns.

Tip

Be sure the top selvage or bottom scrap rectangle in each selvage block isn’t the exact same color as a solid block it is being placed directly above or below. If so, the fabrics will seem to blend together from a distance and your design will seem off.

Quilt assembly

2. Sew the blocks in each row together. Press.

3. Sew the rows together. Press.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Tip

Although an allover quilting pattern looks great on this quilt, the solid color rectangles do allow for a bit of fancy feature quilting. Or, if you’re feeling really ambitious, quilt each color section in a matching color thread.

SPLIT SELVAGE

STRINGS QUILT

TECHNIQUE

• Overlap Method

• Fold-Under Method

This quilt takes a lot of selvages, but the super scrappy result is worth every one! Here, a wide band of background fabric split by a single selvage updates the ever-favorite selvage string block.

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 3½ yards for blocks and binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 93 yards

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 24 strips, each at least 18½˝ long

•  Backing: 3½ yards

•  Batting: 57˝ × 81˝

•  Glue stick

•  Marking pen

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

SOLID FABRIC FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 8 strips 12½˝ × WOF.

Subcut 24 squares 12½˝ × 12½˝.

SOLID FABRIC FOR BINDING

•  Cut 7 strips 2½˝ × WOF for binding.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGES FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 24 strips 18½˝ long.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGES FOR BLOCKS

•  Cut 48 strips 16˝ long to start. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

CONSTRUCTION

Make the Blocks

1. Use a marking pen and ruler to mark a diagonal line running from corner to corner on each 12½˝ square. Measure 1¼˝ from the line on 1 side and mark a parallel line. Repeat on the other side.

Mark center line and 2 parallel lines.

2. Make the overlap selvage sections first. For each block, choose 2 wide-cut selvage strips 16˝ long. Apply a bit of glue to the back of the selvage edge of 1 strip. Smooth it into place on the block so the selvage edge exactly covers 1 of the outer lines. (Do not center the selvage over the line.) Repeat on the other side.

Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, move outward from each side, cutting and overlapping other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take 7 or 8 selvages on each side. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages on each side or on each block overall. Glue, sew, press, and trim the block.

Apply wide-cut selvages first.

3. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 24 narrow-cut selvages.

4. On each block, center a prepared selvage from Step 3 over the diagonal line running from corner to corner. Glue, sew, press, and trim, following the Fold-Under Method.

Add narrow-cut selvages last.

Make the Quilt Top

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

1. Referring to the quilt assembly diagram, arrange the blocks in a layout of 4 blocks across and 6 blocks down. Alternate the direction of the selvage strips in every other block. Place blocks to form full diamonds in the center section and half diamonds on the sides.

2. Sew the blocks in each row together. Press.

Quilt assembly

Tip

Selvages vary slightly in width, so your center narrow-cut selvages may not match perfectly in the corners. That’s okay.

3. Sew the rows together. Press.

Tip

The seams where the center narrow-cut selvages meet will be bulky. Go slowly when sewing these.

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Enjoy!

MODERN SELVAGE

MEDALLION QUILT

TECHNIQUE

• Overlap Method

• Fold-Under Method

• Side-by-Side Method

If you want to save all—and I do mean all—of your selvages to put into one big what-the-wow quilt, here you go. You can do it!

Materials

Yardages are based on fabric that is at least 40˝ wide.

•  Solid fabric: 6½ yards for blocks and borders

•  Binding: ¾ yard for binding

•  Wide-cut selvages: 96 yards

•  Narrow-cut selvages: 36 yards

•  Scrap fabric: 4 rectangles, each at least 1½˝ × 4½˝

•  Backing: 6 yards

•  Batting: 90˝ × 90˝

•  Glue stick

•  Marking pen

•  White thread

Cutting

WOF = width of fabric

This is a large quilt involving many cut pieces of many sizes. To help keep everything as simple as possible, cutting and construction information is organized by section, starting with the center of the quilt and moving out border by border.

CENTER

Solid fabric for center blocks

•  Cut 3 strips 6˝ × WOF.

Subcut 16 squares 6˝ × 6˝.

Wide-cut selvages for center blocks

•  Cut 16 strips 9˝ long to start. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

BORDER 1

Solid fabric

•  Cut 4 strips 3½˝ × WOF.

From each strip, subcut 1 rectangle 3½˝ × 22½˝ and 1 square 3½˝ × 3½˝ (4 total each).

Wide-cut selvages

•  Cut 8 selvage strips, each 22½˝ long.

BORDER 2

Wide-cut selvages

•  Cut 130 strips 4½˝ long to start. Cut additional strips, if needed, as you go during construction.

Scrap fabric

•  Cut 4 rectangles 1½˝ × 4½˝.

BORDER 3

Solid fabric

•  Cut 4 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

From each strip, subcut 1 rectangle 2½˝ × 36½˝ and 1 square 2½˝ × 2½˝ (4 total of each).

Narrow-cut selvages

•  Cut 4 strips 36½˝ long.

BORDER 4

Solid fabric

•  Cut 6 strips 4½˝ × WOF.

Subcut 44 squares 4½˝ × 4½˝.

Narrow-cut selvages

•  Cut 88 strips 7˝ long.

BORDER 5

Solid fabric

•  Cut 8 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

From each strip, subcut 1 rectangle 2½˝ × 23½˝ and 1 square 2½˝ × 2½˝ (8 total of each).

Narrow-cut selvages

•  Cut 8 strips 23½˝ long.

BORDER 6

Solid fabric

•  Cut 6 strips 5½˝ × WOF.

Subcut 4 rectangles 5½˝ × 40˝.

From each of 2 strips, subcut 2 rectangles 5½˝ × 13˝ and 2 squares 5½˝ × 5½˝ (4 total of each).

Wide-cut selvages

•  Cut 96 strips 5½˝ long.

BORDER 7

Solid fabric

•  Cut 8 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

From each of 4 strips, subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 18˝ (8 total).

From each of 4 strips, subcut 1 rectangle 2½˝ × 23½˝ (4 total) and 3 squares 2½˝ × 2½˝ (12 total).

Narrow-cut selvages

•  Cut 4 strips 23½˝ long.

•  Cut 8 strips 18˝ long.

BORDER 8

Solid fabric

•  Cut 9 strips 6˝ × WOF.

Subcut 52 squares 6˝ × 6˝.

Wide-cut selvages

•  Cut 48 strips 9˝ long. Cut additional strips as you go during construction.

BORDER 9

Solid fabric

•  Cut 8 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

Subcut 6 rectangles 2½˝ × 40˝.

Subcut 2 rectangles 2½˝ × 38˝.

From a piece of fabric left over from cutting earlier, cut 2 squares 2½˝ × 2½˝.

BINDING

•  Cut 9 strips 2½˝ × WOF.

CONSTRUCTION

Use a ¼˝ seam allowance and press seams open throughout.

Center

1. Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, use the 6˝ squares and the selvages to make half-square triangle blocks.

Use a 9˝ selvage strip for the diagonal center of each block. Cut and overlap other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take either 4 or 5 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 16 blocks.

Half-square triangle block. Make 16.

2. Referring to the center assembly diagram, arrange the blocks in a layout of 4 blocks across and 4 blocks down.

3. Sew blocks in each row together. Press.

4. Sew rows together. Press.

Center assembly

Border 1

1. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method, sew the 22½˝ selvage strips in pairs. Make 4 pairs.

2. Sew a selvage pair to the center of a 3½˝ × 22½˝ rectangle, also following the Side-by-Side Method. Press. Make 4. Set 2 aside for the side borders.

3. Sew a 3½˝ square to each end of the 2 remaining 3½˝ × 22½˝ rectangles to make the top and bottom borders. Press.

4. Attach the side borders. Press.

5. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 2

1. Referring to the Overlap method, use the 4 scrap rectangles and the 4½˝ selvage strips to make 2 selvage rectangles 4½˝ × 28½˝ for the side borders and 2 selvage rectangles 4½˝ × 36½˝ for the top and bottom borders. Press.

2. Attach the side borders. Press.

3. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Borders 1 and 2 assembly

Border 3

1. Using the Fold-Under Method, sew a 36½˝ narrow-cut selvage strip to the center of a 2½˝ × 36½˝ solid rectangle. Make 4. Press. Set 2 aside for the side borders.

2. Sew a 2½˝ solid square to each end of the 2 re-maining 2½˝ × 36½˝ rectangles to make the top and bottom borders. Press.

3. Attach the side borders. Press.

4. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 4

1. Using a marking pen, mark an X diagonally from corner to corner on a 4½˝ solid square. Mark 44.

2. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare the 88 narrow-cut selvage strips. Set 44 strips aside.

3. Glue a 7˝ selvage strip at a diagonal, corner to corner, across the center of each 4½˝ solid square. Make sure the marked line is centered beneath the selvage. Sew. Press. Make 44.

4. Using the remaining selvage strips from Step 2, glue and sew a diagonal strip in the opposite direction on each block to form an X. Press. Trim. Make 44.

5. Sew 10 blocks together to form a 4½˝ × 40½˝ strip. Press. Make 2 for the side borders.

6. Sew 12 blocks together to form a 4½˝ × 48½˝ strip. Press. Make 2 for the top and bottom borders.

7. Attach the side borders. Press.

8. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 5

1. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare 8 narrow-cut selvage strips.

2. Sew a prepared selvage strip to the center of a 2½˝ × 23½˝ solid rectangle. Press. Make 8.

3. For the side borders, sew together in order:

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

Total length = 48½˝. Press. Make 2.

4. For the top and bottom borders, sew together in order:

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

Total length = 52½˝. Press. Make 2.

5. Attach the side borders. Press.

6. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Borders 3, 4, and 5 assembly

Border 6

1. Sew a 5½˝ × 40˝ rectangle to a 5½˝ × 13˝ rectangle to make a 5½˝ × 52½˝ strip. Press. Make 4.

2. Using a marking pen, mark a horizontal line 4¼˝ from 1 end of a strip from Step 1. From that mark, measure and mark every 4˝ for a total of 12 marks. Mark 4 strips.

3. Referring to the Side-by-Side Method, sew the 5½˝ selvage strips together in pairs. It is perfectly okay if the sewn pairs vary in width. Center a selvage pair over each marked line; glue, sew, and press. Set 2 strips aside for side borders.

4. Sew a 5½˝ square to each end of the remaining 2 strips to make the top and bottom borders. Press.

5. Attach side borders. Press.

6. Attach top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 7

1. Using the Fold-Under Method, prepare and sew an 18˝ selvage strip to the center of a 2½˝ × 18˝ strip. Make 8. Press.

2. Use the same method to prepare and sew a 23½˝ selvage strip to the center of a 2½˝ × 23½˝ strip. Make 4. Press.

3. For the side borders, sew together in order:

•  2½˝ × 18˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 18˝ rectangle

Total length = 62½˝. Press. Make 2.

4. For top and bottom borders, sew together in order:

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 18˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 23½˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

•  2½˝ × 18˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

Total length = 66½˝. Press. Make 2.

5. Attach the side borders. Press.

6. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 8

Almost done!

1. Referring to the Overlap Method for Half-Square Triangle Blocks, use 48 of the 6˝ solid squares and the selvages to make half-square triangle blocks.

Use a 9˝ selvage strip for the diagonal center of the block. Cut and overlap other selvage strips as needed. Depending on the width of your selvages and how much you overlap them, it will likely take either 4 or 5 selvages to complete each block. If it takes more or fewer strips, that’s fine. You don’t have to use the same number of selvages in each block. Glue, sew, press, and trim. Make 48 blocks.

2. Sew the blocks together in pairs so that when pressed open, each forms a large triangle point. Sew 6 pairs together to make a long strip 6˝ × 66½˝. Press. Make 4 strips. Set 2 aside for the side borders.

3. Sew a 6˝ solid square to each end of the 2 remaining strips to make top and bottom borders. Total length = 77½˝. Press.

4. Attach the side borders. Press.

5. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

Border 9

And finally, last one!

1. Sew a 2½˝ × 40˝ rectangle to a 2½˝ × 38˝ rectangle to create a 2½˝ × 77½˝ strip. Press. Make 2 for side borders.

2. For the top and bottom borders, sew together in order:

•  2½˝ × 40˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ × 40˝ rectangle

•  2½˝ square

Total length = 81½˝. Make 2.

3. Attach the side borders. Press.

4. Attach the top and bottom borders. Press.

You have completed the top! Can you believe it? You did it!

FINISH THE QUILT

Quilt and bind as desired.

Then alert the local media. Or at least show the quilt to everyone you know.

Quilt assembly

CREATE YOUR OWN SELVAGE

It’s always important to sign your creations, but with selvage quilts there’s an easy, clever alternative to a quilt label on the back. Your name deserves to go on the front of your masterpiece!

Using a permanent fabric marker with a fine tip, put your name on your quilt on a plain section of selvage—as if it is part of the selvage text. Do this before you quilt the top. Perhaps even plan ahead and put a plain white selvage in somewhere specifically for this purpose. I usually sign my quilts in the lower right corner, just as a painter signs a painting. I put my name and the year I finished the quilt. It’s a little surprise that you wouldn’t know is there unless you look for it, but it takes care of providing the quilt’s provenance to future generations (or to quilt museum curators, of course).

You can also go a step further and write a little message or record more information about you or the quilt. Where do you live? Who is the quilt for? How long did it take you to make the quilt? How many selvages did you use?

Tip

Use only a fine-tip marker and be sure to test it on a scrap selvage first to see that the ink will not run or bleed on the selvage surface.

QUILTING

Selvage quilts can be quilted the same as any other quilt. Projects in this book were quilted on either my (modest) home sewing machine or by long-arm sewing machine. For the ones I did myself, I didn’t make any changes from my regular quilting practices. I used cotton batting and my usual method of basting with safety pins. I quilted with 100% polyester thread, same as always. I left my regular presser foot on my machine (I know this is slightly unusual and most people use a walking foot or free-motion foot.) I did everything as if my quilt was made completely of regular fabric.

Really only two factors are unique to selvage quilts to watch out for:

•  First, if you didn’t sew close enough to a selvage edge when you were making the quilt, the edge can get flipped up, folded, and sewn down when quilting. Also, the edges of shaggy-finish selvages can get sewn down either flipped up or off to one side. Be aware of this when quilting, and go slowly and carefully over areas where this may be an issue.

•  The second consideration is that seams can be very bulky where selvages meet selvages. Corners especially can be a challenge to sew over. When planning your quilting design, you might wish to come up with something that avoids going directly over the bulkiest seams.

As to quilting style, you will notice that the projects in this book are quilted very simply—straight lines, overall stippling, overall repeating designs. Simple patterns not only look modern but also let the selvages continue to be the star, not overshadowed by fancy quilting. Remember that selvage quilts are scrap quilts. They are humble, recycled, and made using mostly free materials. Only background fabric must be purchased. In the whole scheme of things, they are relatively inexpensive to make. So why add to the cost by sending them out for a custom quilting treatment? If you are a fabulous fancy quilter yourself, then by all means go for it—this is just my take on things. But I think it is important to remember that plain, minimalist, or overall quilting can be a design choice—an excellent and confident design choice—and should not at all be thought of as merely a quick and easy solution or a choice that reflects a lack of effort.

USE AND CARE

Every quilt, regardless of what it’s made of and how it’s constructed, will last longer and stay in better condition when you properly care for it. You will decide how to care for your selvage quilt just as you decide what to do with any quilt you’ve made. That said, I have both used and washed some of my selvage quilts. I have washed them in cold water on the regular washing machine cycle and I have put them in the dryer, too. I have treated them the same as I do many other quilts I’ve made. I haven’t had any problems doing this.

AFTERWORD

Thank you for staying with me all the way to the end! I hope you’ve enjoyed the book. Now for one more little story and a bit of silliness to finish.

My son loves trivia. He always has. He likes facts, lists, comparisons, rankings, statistics, and numbers. He likes to quiz me about things. Often. One day after answering what must have been his twentieth trivia question about hockey or state capitals, I tried to explain how, although I loved chatting with him, it was hard to constantly answer so many questions about subjects I really wasn’t interested in. To further my point I asked him how he’d feel if I started quizzing him about quilting.

Of course, it backfired, and he was game.

So after a bit of consideration, I asked, “What is the typical seam allowance used in quilting?”

He thought. And thought.

“$150 a month?” he guessed.

Honestly.

And I wish it was, quite frankly.

Anyway. This book has been a ton of fun to put together. So here are a few trivia questions I came up with about my process.

Which quilt top did I have to take completely apart once because I have never been good at telling the difference between right and left?

That would be the Crooked Picket Rail Fence Quilt. All 80 blocks were seam ripped after being stitched. I’m glad the quilt wasn’t any larger.

How many quilters gave me selvages to use in this book?

At least 17 quilters gave me selvages that ended up in the book projects. But many more people have generously given me selvages in the past that I used for other selvage quilts I’ve made.

Which quilt design did I come up with first?

Which Way to the Fabric Store? Quilt

Which project did I make first?

You’re a Selvage Superstar Wall Quilt

Which project took the longest to make?

I’m sure no one is surprised that it was the Modern Selvage Medallion Quilt. That thing was on my design wall forever.

If all the selvages used in this book were placed end-to-end, how far would they reach in miles?

Don’t worry, I don’t know either. You didn’t really think I was going to calculate that, did you?

After making all the projects in the book, am I tired of selvage quilting?

Not even close.

Until next time, happy selvage quilting!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Riel Nason is an award-winning novelist and textile artist. She is best known for her whimsical selvage quilts.

Riel began quilting in 2009 and made her first selvage quilt in 2010. Since then she has sewn thousands of selvages together and made dozens of selvage projects, both large and small. In 2014 she had her debut solo quilting exhibition in Canada, called A ¼ Inch Scream. It featured humorous Halloween-themed selvage quilts that explored the sometimes scary enthusiasm quilters have for their craft. She has had her selvage quilts shown at Quilt Canada (Canada’s national juried show) and in group exhibitions in Canada and France.

Besides selvage quilting, Riel makes colorful, modern, free-pieced quilts. She also loves to play with scraps. She maintains a popular quilting blog and is a member of the Canadian Quilters’ Association, the Modern Quilt Guild, and her local quilt guild. Her website is rielnason.com.

Riel lives in New Brunswick, Canada, with her husband, son, daughter, and cats. This is her first book about quilting.

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Modern Selvage Quilting Download

Copyright © 2016 by C&T Publishing, Inc.

ISBN 978-1-61745-084-6

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